I had painted these 11 chaps on 2021 but I needed 7 more to make a full unit with three rows of six.
So I took this evil warrior from Reaper that I painted on 2023...
This blog is to share my main hobby which is painting and wargaming with miniatures. I paint and play historics, fantasy and sci-fi, from 6 mm to 28 mm.
I had painted these 11 chaps on 2021 but I needed 7 more to make a full unit with three rows of six.
So I took this evil warrior from Reaper that I painted on 2023...
I had this fellow from long ago, with the idea of painting it someday to be the general of my Chaos army, so now with the TOW hype I finally did it.
I am not happy with the final result but it is done. I mean, it is not bad but neither good. Maybe painting 1/72 scale for much time has spoilt a bit my already average level painting skills.
Anyway, I always thought the pose of both rider and horse had a close resemblance to the Death Dealer picture by the master Frank Frazetta. What do you think?
Below you have two more pictures to let you see the special cloak made of defeated armies this character is wearing: Bretonnia, Empire, Dark Elves and Orks.
From time to time there is always somebody who asks what is the best method to prepare soft plastic figures to prevent chipping. I remember my first times painting these bendy figures without any information, and how frustrating it was to see how the paint flakes off the miniatures after a while, so I decided to publish the way it works for me after much experimenting. I hope someone may find it helpful.
First of all, rinse with dish soap and warm water and the help of an old toothbrush.
Once dry, use a primer with a brush. I am using Vallejo acrylic-polyutrethane Surface Primer for
aerograph, but with just a brush and the same results. Many
spray primers have chemicals that do not go well with soft plastics.
This method of priming with a brush was recommended by Reaper miniatures
to use on his Bones soft plastic range and it really works.
Optionally, you can reinforce bendy parts like a spear with PVA or white glue.
It is a good idea to give several coats of diluted acrilyc paints to the figures. Acrylic is more flexible than oil paints, and several diluted coats are more elastic and resistant than one thick coat of paint. Speaking of which, new contrast or Xpress paints work really well with soft plastic as they are thin and very flexible. I'm attaching a video I made for you to see how flexible are the new paints (the spears were painted with Vallejo Xpress). Also, at the back you can see the primer I'm using. It is sold in white, grey and black colour.
I'm giving two coats of varnish to all my miniatures, be soft or hard plastic or even metal. Glossy is harder than matte, so I give first a gloss coat and then a second matte coat at the next day as I don't like my miniatures to be bright.
Done.
It finally happened and although I said no many times, here I am painting old figures for new games.
I have painted this unit in a hurry, but only the 16 plastic ones; the champion in metal was already painted long ago, as it was the Gamezone sorcerer.
I am not rebasing anything; just using adapted trays.
I am going to try this whole unit plus the sorcerer with the mark of Tzeentch as see how it goes.