From time to time there is always somebody who asks what is the best method to prepare soft plastic figures to prevent chipping. I remember my first times painting these bendy figures without any information, and how frustrating it was to see how the paint flakes off the miniatures after a while, so I decided to publish the way it works for me after much experimenting. I hope someone may find it helpful.
First of all, rinse with dish soap and warm water and the help of an old toothbrush.
Once dry, use a primer with a brush. I am using Vallejo acrylic-polyutrethane Surface Primer for
aerograph, but with just a brush and the same results. Many
spray primers have chemicals that do not go well with soft plastics.
This method of priming with a brush was recommended by Reaper miniatures
to use on his Bones soft plastic range and it really works.
Optionally, you can reinforce bendy parts like a spear with PVA or white glue.
It is a good idea to give several coats of diluted acrilyc paints to the figures. Acrylic is more flexible than oil paints, and several diluted coats are more elastic and resistant than one thick coat of paint. Speaking of which, new contrast or Xpress paints work really well with soft plastic as they are thin and very flexible. I'm attaching a video I made for you to see how flexible are the new paints (the spears were painted with Vallejo Xpress). Also, at the back you can see the primer I'm using. It is sold in white, grey and black colour.
I'm giving two coats of varnish to all my miniatures, be soft or hard plastic or even metal. Glossy is harder than matte, so I give first a gloss coat and then a second matte coat at the next day as I don't like my miniatures to be bright.
Done.
Great tip!
ReplyDeleteI've been using Matte ModPodge for sealing figures, a product you can buy in craft shops. It' stays very flexible, and gives the figures a sturdy finnish which is good if you're handling them in wargaming etc. Even if I'm been using the Matte ModPodge, I usually gives them an overspray with some flat varnish.
https://modelrailsandwargames.blogspot.com/2020/06/in-war-gaming-your-soldiers-needs.html
Hi Roger, I've never seen ModPodge in Spain stores but I'll check as it has sparkled my interest. From what I've read about it, it seems to be PVA diluted with water but with matte effect, but you say in your blog it is more a sealant than a primer, and I am more interested in the first one as I usually use spray varnishes. Are you also using it on hard plastic or metal miniatuers? Cheers.
DeleteThank you, Javier! Very helpful.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your feedback Mark, glad you liked it. Cheers
DeleteHola, Javier. En primer lugar, decirte que me encanta tu blog y que sigo con mucho interés tu trabajo, en especial de la escala 1/72, por la calidad y el detalle que consigues. ¡Enhorabuena!
ReplyDeleteQuisiera hacerte un par de preguntas, porque aunque tengo muchos modelos de esta escala, aún no he empezado a pintarlos. Ahí van:
- ¿Qué pegamento usas para unir partes de miniaturas de plástico blando, o miniaturas con bases de metal?
- Y sobre el barniz que usas, tanto el de brillo como el mate ¿son de pincel o de spray?
Muchas gracias de antemano, un saludo.
Hola! Gracias por tus amables palabras. Para pegar plástico blando había un producto específico con dos elementos que se aplicaban a las superficies y pegaban muy bien pero era caro y un poco latoso de usar; eran de una marca de pegamentos famosa pero no la recuerdo porque hace tiempo de eso. Como lo que normalmente pego son jinetes a monturas, lo que hago es que taladro la silla del caballo y les pongo una varilla de alambre en la entrepierna del jinete y los uno con cianocrilato. Cuando está seco le paso cola blanca a los bordes de las piernas del jinete en contacto con el caballo; llegando a casi rellenar con cola los huecos que puedan haber quedado. Después imprimo y pinto, y eso no se despega en la vida.
DeleteLa verdad es que todo lo pego así, varilla, cianocrilato, cola blanca. La cola blanca es maravillosa y la uso mucho también con las figuras impresas en resina porque al secar se contrae y aprieta, y también le da a la unión una flexibilidad que no te da el cianocrilato.
El mejor barniz mate que conozco y que estoy usando ahora es el Windsor and Newton en spray (13.50€). Siempre doy primero una capa de barniz spray brillante o satinado (Vallejo) y al día siguiente el mate de W&N.
Un saludo :)